PHOTO: RITZO TEN CATE

Fermented food:
healthy,
local,
attractive and tasty

PROPOSITION

into severe psychotic disorders at UMCG and Lentis, and promoted the Groene GGZ, which advocates nature as the source of good health. Having realized that she was not making as much progress as she would like, she started working for herself. ‘I set up my Food Lab for future food and hosted workshops and dinners aimed at combining healthy, delicious food, natural, local products, and a focus on the importance of healthy soil. It’s all good for your microbiome (the colonies of micro-organisms in your gut, ed.) and therefore for your basic health.’

Learning to ferment
The first thing Bais did was to explore fermentation: an ancient practice used to make coffee, yoghurt and sauerkraut, which soared in popularity during the COVID-19 pandemic. Bais: ‘Fermenting involves using the natural micro-organisms found on food, such as mould, yeast, and bacteria, to convert nutrients into other compounds. The food can then be stored for longer, is easier to digest, and is healthier and tastier. To be able to ferment properly, you need to know something about the conditions required, and you must observe a few basic rules. Once you know all this, the rest is fairly easy.

Super healthy
You make kimchi, for example, by allowing Chinese cabbage and other vegetables to ferment in a sealed pot. The lack of oxygen encourages the natural lactic acid bacteria to multiply, creating a delicious, super-healthy vegetable dish. Just a few mouthfuls of kimchi with your meal provides a whole bunch of health bacteria: a real boost for your microbiome. This is no longer just a hype in the macrobiotic world; lots of restaurants are serving it these days.’

Miso made from local beans
Bais was inspired by the forager from Noma and is now experimenting with local products herself. ‘During a workshop, he showed us how you can use ants to add a sour taste to a sweet dish. It was a real eye-opener.’ She now wants to make Groningen miso. ‘Miso is a savoury paste, which you can use to add a delicious umami taste to soup or casseroles. At Noma, they don’t use rice and soya beans, but locally grown pearl barley and yellow peas. I want to do this too, but based on old traditional species of beans and wheat grown in Groningen.’

Art and science
As well as experimenting, Bais has another goal: ‘I want people to experience for themselves how incredibly healthy, tasty, and attractive food can be. So I’m currently setting up artistic projects to draw public attention to the link between food and science. If there’s one thing I learned at Noma, it’s that food is also art, which moves and inspires people.’

www.leoniebais.nl

eonie Bais is a psychologist, having studied the brain for her PhD. She spent 13 years carrying out research

L

TEXT: MARJAN BROUWERS

Leonie Bais had been fermenting food for her FoodLab for two years when
she attended a workshop at the
world-famous restaurant Noma in Copenhagen. While sticking an ant to a pine cone that had been boiled in sugar – instead of a slice of lemon – she suddenly understood how perfectly the combination of healthy, local, tasty, and attractive works.